27.9.06

tallinn

i always feel somehow relieved when i arrive in tallinn. i dont know why. perhaps it is my memories from when i was younger and arriving here always meant a shopping holiday away from russia, where, in those days, there was nothing. maybe because the place always seems so civilised: the streets are clean, the people friendly, and no one pushes and shoves. maybe because my family has good friends here who always showed me around and made me feel at home. i dont know.

the train ride was the usual russian train experience. there were two really cute ethnic russian actors who had been performing in moscow. they were young, and spoke fluent estonian and thus had citizenship. then there was an elderly ethnic russian pensioner who had been sent to estonia to work in a factory in 1970. he never learned estonian and consequently is citizenship, traveling with one one of those grey passports the estonian government started giving out in the early 1990s. it reads "Alien Passport" and announces in estonian and english that "the bearer of this passport is not an estonian citizen" and so on. the dyed gave me chocolat. the guys and i tried to explain to him where my country was. he didnt get it. he had noticed i spoke russian with an accent and assumed i was ethnic estonian. i explained that i wasnt, but i dont think i managed to convince him. slava, one of the young guys tried to draw a map....but that didnt seem to work either because dyed's final verdict was "nu, mi zhe vsye sovietski ludi v kontse kontsov." at that the guys and i concluded there was no point in explaining further.

25.9.06

the lasts all over again

every time i move to a different place (which is every few months) i have to go through this ritual of The Lasts. this is The Last Time I Will Do This This Time Around.
it is a depressing but i suppose necessary ritual.
so saturday was the Last Meal with the Chos. it was already an incomplete meal: hyun soo wasnt there. we went to the korean restaurant in the mezhdunarodnaia hotel and went over board eating. we had all my favourite foods including bibinbop....mmm...then there was a particularly interesting dish: korean pizza (as the chos described it) made from octopus. the little suckers on the tentacles looked a bit odd, but caitlin claimed it tasted alright.....hyun ho was being a little comic and entertained us all. afterwards caitlin and i said goodbye to masyamba, who left a few hours later for budapest.
next stop was Last Coffee with My Supervisor. we met at tratakovskaia and caught up on my research and his institutes needs. i now have a series of requests/ tasks to bring up to my other english supervisor (who is actually australian) when i see her on wednesday. my old supervisor is a funny guy, talking to him always makes me giggle. my favourite part of the conversation was when he asked me what my current supervisors' specialties are. so i told him that my first supervisor is interested in postcolonialism and masculinities. my old supervisor thought about this and asked "muzh est?" ie: has she got a husband? when i told him my second supervisors specialty is child suicide, he just looked completely confused.
yesterday was The Last Brunch and Bimbo Shopping With Caitlin. we over ate and overspent to mark the occasion. we had omlets and sirniki at a cafe near her house and then went down novi arbat to sultanna frantsuzova where i bought a suit and a jumper, telling myself that they would be a lot more expensive in london, and i mean, a girl always needs a suit!
today is The Last Trip to the Book shop, The Last Coffee With Caitlin, The Last Round of Drinks With Igor and The Last Restaurant Adventure With Vladimir and Oleg.
these lasts are tiring me out. i just went through them all 4 months ago when i left london! and i am sure they will all repeat again soon.
but life moves on, next stop: TALLINN

22.9.06

this city is too small

sometimes moscow really does seem like a village.
yesterday masyamba and i went back to our kafedra to meet one of our old professors. i had a funny feeling going into the building and up the stairs, past the stairwells of smoking students, where my group used spend out breaks. things look pretty much the same, some details have improved (there was no shit only the walls in the toilets) but the rest was as before. our professor was a bit strange with us (angry that we didnt stay in mother russia for aspirantura?) but thrust an invitation to the serbian embassy in our hands and insisted we go. i couldnt, as i had work, but masha did....and ran into my old supervisor in the process.
i meanwhile headed of to work. i got to the centre with sometime to kill and decided to stroll up tverskaia which was on my way. as i got to the coffee bean near pushkinskaia i heard a voice shout my name....and there in front of me was my ex-flatmates ex-girlfriend. she had just arrived in moscow the day before after THREE YEARS in new york. so we had a coffee. we never had much in common, and now less than ever. she has developped this annoying habit that many russians who have lived a couple of years in the west have of interjecting english idioms into their russian, to the point where they are completely incomprehensible. this tendancy is made worse when they misuse the idioms. for example "oi, new york, eto bilo vobshe, znaesh, over the top..." or "i potom ya dumala oh my god shto nado delat?" so the conversation went on like that and after 45 minutes i was all too glad to escape to work.
but today things got stranger. i bolted out of the office at 10 am to go to the post office. i was running to the metro and concentrating on my ipod when someone grabbed my arm. it was robert.
robert and i went to mgy together. we sat in classes together with shurik, viktor, masyamba, and ivan, all day every day. but after we graduated, masyamba and i kept up, but we both left the country and lost touch with the boys, all of whom stayed here in moscow....but now it seems that robert and i WORK IN THE SAME OFFICE BUILDING! he is on the 4th floor and i am on the 8th. pity i am leaving soon, i would have liked to have caught up more properly.

18.9.06

aigul in moscow

this weekend was mainly spent obsessing over my paper. natalia went to St Petersburg with some friends, leaving me a note instructing me "not to over-thesis" which i think represents the interesting addition of a new verb to the english language.
my exciting social activity was going for lunch with masyamba and aigul, who was visiting from kazan. we went to a japanese place on tverskaia and i stuffed my self on sushi. actually saturday turned out to be a bit of a CEU day. as i was walking into my flat on my way back from lunch, the phone started ringing. i assumed this would be my fathers routine saturday afternoon call, but no, it was filip calling from bulgaria. i hadnt spoken to the guy in 2.5 years, since i left budapest. it was a bit wierd to talk to him after all this time, but he seems to be doing well, still partying with the bulgarian contingent from CEU. then later in the evening i had a 1 hour chat with marko on the phone. he is in leipzig on scholarship for a month, after which he is going to berlin for awhile. it is amazing how one year can have such an impact on you life, but my year in Hungary certainly did, some of my closest friends come from that year, and i miss them all very much now that we have spread out to all corners of Europe.

16.9.06

need...sleep

went out last night to ZH.Z.L. and Diagalev. Diagalev was way better than ZH.Z.L.....but still they are all abit the same..the food at ZH.Z.L. was really good though. in the end i was the only girl at the party (big surprise) and the guys at my table spent most of the time talking about the women dancing. very few guys dance here (since they are all in suits) so the dance floor generally gets filled with women wearing very, um, creative attire. i went to bed too late and got up too early. i am having to bind all my fotocopies, because the russian post sends only books, not papers (which become books when you stick a plastic ring around them, logically) so i keep having to go to this internet place that binds things together. i think the people who work there have decided i am insane, which is possible. everytime i got there with yet another mound of papers the employees all seem to try to hide. i suppose no one wants to get stuck with the job of making holes in hundreds of sheets of paper, which is understandable. but there is nothing i can do about, other than tell them to blame the babushka at the central post office. i have already sent about 30 kilos of books out of the country, and i have still a mound of 20fotocopied books that need to be bound and sent out as well. by the time all this is dont, probably not only the internet cafe employees will be ready to kill me, but justin as well, since these things are all going to his address.
i will put you in the acknowledgements section of my first book, justin, i promise.
but today is a nice day (sunny, although very cold) and i am off to pushkinskaia for lunch with masha and aigul. i have to enjoy these sunny days while they last....

15.9.06

social obligations

i have suddenly been invited/required to attend a series of parties at various moscow clubs. the problem with going clubbing in this city is it is often more stress than pleasure, and i dont really see why i should overstress myself at the weekend when i am stressed already during the week.
for some reason, moscow clubs feature men in expensive suits who arrive in SUVs, preferably hummers. as they are wearing flipping suits, obviously they cannot really dance. so instead people sit around and stare at each other, seeing whose suit/ skanky outfit cost more. oh, and then there are the obnoixous bouncers who gave moscow its reputation for feis control. so the whole thing is pretentious and i see it as a bit of a drag. and in addition to all the supposed flash and pretention, the people still sometimes behave like peasants. vladimir, oleg and co. has decided to make a party in my honour at zhizn zamechatelnih ludei...and i cant really miss my own party. then another company has decided to have a party celebrating its 10th birthday at diagalev (reserving three tables cost 15,000 dollars, with a discount. and that is just for the reservation and a complementary champagne.....the food is extra....extra like in the hundreds) and then i am supposed to go with collegues/friends to first....unfortunately i am going to first this weekend, not last weekend when apparently madonna was there.....oh well.
i just got a bag at furla...it is consolation for having to go to these places. Kashmar.

11.9.06

Свадьба на Воробьевых в прошлую субботу

i realise that fotographing others fashion mistakes does not make me a better human being, but some of them are just too ripe not to share, underwear being worn as outer wear (or not being worn at all) includded. these pictures are particularly scary as they are taken right outside my old university.

Выпускница средней школы 2006

caitlin and i have become obsessed with recording, collecting, and exchanging images of Moscow Fashion Mistakes.
here are some of my favourites, this girl cant be more than 16.....

bimbo days

my sundays are so unproductive. and i have all kinds of excuses i use to justify this, but the truth is i just enjoy it.
i met caitlin at Stockman's at 11 and we had a coffee to give us the strength for some shopping. we looked at towels and bed linens and all sorts of other exciting items before heading for our usual sunday brunch. this time we went for Chinese, which was a bit of an odd choice for shortly after noon, but the food was really excellent. we had tofu and really spicy baklazhani. it was incredible, but very heavy at such and hour. i dont think they alcohol we ordered with it helped!
afterwards we trotted down novi arbat and stopped (naturally) at sultanna frantsuzova, but with the exercising of some self control, we didnt buy anything. next stop was ohotni riad, but the place was over crowded with scary dyevs and after a brief stop at karen millen, we decided to escape. we went to small talk where we attempted to flush the chinese rocks out of our stomachs by drinking endless pots of tea and gossiping. then some cambridge boys showed up. one of them (jesus college, what more need be said?) was nominated last year by Cosmopolitain magazine as one of moscows most eligible bachelors. the guy was perfectly polite, intelligent and decent, but if that is supposed to be one of the top 100, it is definately time for me to leave town! i dont know what it is about these eton- cambridge guys, but they are truely the antithesis of sexy.
no offense meant of course to my loyal cambridge readers!

8.9.06

thank god it is friday

i asked my supposedly advanced business students to explain to me in their own words what "team building" means.
pasha: "team building is when you are with boss drinking."
Denis: "team building is when you are with collegues drinking."
Sergei: "team building is when boss is drinks buying."
lena: "team building is what they are doing in the american companies."

groan. at that i clenched my jaw and reminded myself it is friday.

6.9.06

mid week report

i havent been inspired to write much lately. perhaps because i have so much i need to do for my supervisor. i submitted my 30 page literary review to her today and now i have to get working on my first chapter. it should be about 50 pages and it is due in october. i am paniking.
meanwhile i am desperately photocopying everything i see in the library that might be of interest. everytime i thing i really have everyting i discover a new source that i hadnt investigated previously. i dont know when this will all end, but that point seems a long way away from here.
hyun soo left today.
his invitation arrived from canada, but the embassy here in moscow said it would take a month to process the visa, whereas the embassy in seoul said they could do it within a week. a 12 year old korean is, after all, an unlikely security threat. so this evening hyun soo is getting on an airplane all by himself to fly to the otherside of the planet. he may not come back to moscow for a very very long time. his family plans to leave the country by january, since his father died, there is no reason to stay here. moscow will not be the same without the chos. i have known them for years, since the boys were teeny tiny. i remember trying to teach hyun soo how to tell time correctly in english. now he speaks with almost no accent and is jetting around the world to a posh canadian boarding school. amazing.
i, meanwhile, should get back to writing.

3.9.06

myspace code
Myspace Codes: MyNiceSpace.com

история двух кошечек

i love my weekends here in moscow, they are so lazy. the library is closed on sundays, so i have the ultimate excuse not to do any work.
today i got up slowly and stumbled down the street to have coffee with igor and his friend tom who is visiting from london. they were in the same law programme there. meanwhile, tom, in his 10 days here had managed to pick up a dyev from naberezhni chelni, and she showed up as well. the poor guy made all the usual mistakes. his food arrived just as she sat down and he started eating (ie, he didnt wait for her to order and get her food) ...the usual dyev related misunderstandings. apparently he didnt even know he was supposed to pay. igor and i just sat back and giggled, occasionally exchanging glances.
afterwards i met caitlin for yet another sunday brunch and gossip. we went to small pleasures, but the menu was different than the last time we were there, and there wasnt much choice for the gluten intolerant. oh well, not much i can do about that!
the rest of the afternoon was lazy. i picked up a copy of garfield 2 in the metro on the way home and watched it over a platter of justin-supplied junk food. the film is SO CUTE. i know many of you will read this and groan at my bad taste, but really it is adorable. it is like the parent trap, BUT FOR CATS!!!! it is even better than the last garfeild, which i saw in a paris theatre with yaelle and about 100 saudi 10 year olds....(what else could you expect on the champs elysees?) in the new one, garfeild goes to england and trades places by accident with a (feline) prince. i kept rolling about laughing it was so funny. my copy is in russian, but i can only imagine that the film must be even funnier in english with the different accents and all.
and by now you are probably marvelling that any university would accept a garfield watcher into its phd programme, but really i recommend this film to all!
on that note i should probably get back to my work....

1.9.06

the update

for those of you who have been waiting nervously on the edge of your seats, let me put your mind to rest: hyun soo got accepted to boarding school!!!
i was so nervous waiting for the answer that it was as if i was the one who had applied. but yesterday morning we got the email that he had been accepted, so as soon as his visa gets processed he will be on a plane for vancouver! i really think it is a great opportunity for him, i even envy him in a way, since the school looks really great.
i meanwhile am going back and forth with my supervisors to figure out what i will do over the next few years..it is scary when you see your life being planned out further in advance than you are used to thinking. but i suppose my supervisors are right to be thinking ahead. in the meantime i am really just worried about this exam in october. if i can just get through that i will be content, at least for a little while.

30.8.06

hyun ho

jai sung

hyun soo, part II


hyun soo had his big interview for the school last night by telephone. i was as nervous as if it were my own interview. masha and i tried to prepare him at the weekend, but of course non of the quesitons we asked him actually appeared in the read interview. it seems they asked him alot on psychologically based ones instead of the academic variants we thought of. for example, they wanted to know what he would do if his best friend did something that hurt him, and so on. i presume that was because it was an interview for a boarding school place? i dont know. but now we are all waiting nervously for the answer. we should know in two-three days. fingers crossed.

28.8.06

image makers


caitlin has been asked to prepare a session on corporate dress for a company here in moscow. it seems many of the girls in the company have difficulty knowing what you wear to a night club, and what you wear to work. so, as part of her preparations, caitlin asked me to go around Moscow with her and take some pitures of some fashion donts common to this city.
my god, they are everywhere....

25.8.06

friday

it couldnt have come fast enough. it has been a long week. i have been trying to help the chos get hyun soo into an elite boarding school in vancouver, 11 time zones away, which has meant a lot of late night phone calls.
and then there are my jobs and my studies as well...i keep meaning to write book reviews for Ferenc, but i dont get around to it.
why are there only 24 hours in the day? it seems so unfair!

no comment

23.8.06

again, the post office

the weather has gone crazy. after some warm and sunny days, it seems it hs become autumn. it is pissing rain non stop, and everyone is ill. my flatmate natalia has a hacking cough, a runny nose and a soar throat. Masha has strep and has to stay in bed for a week. oleg has a fever....and i dont feel so gat myself, but maybe that is by association.
i got up early to post some books to my supervisor in london. naturally, there is one window in one post office in this city of over 12 million from which you can post books at the special book rate. and it is staffed by one babushka. these babushka who work these jobs are amazing. they never age. the remain an indescribeable 60 or so infinately. they just go on stamping their ridiculous peices of paper and barking at people for all eternity. their bodies are formless, and the clothes uniform. they are everywhere. they make my photocopies in the library, they sell me my metro pass, and they work in the post. so it is not surprising that i went to the central post office of moscow, to the one window that sends books abroad at the special rate, only to find the exact same baba who was sitting in the exact same window over 3 years ago when i posted several hundred books from moscow to budapest. and of course she remembered me, as babas always do. and then preceeded to deliver a monologue on the lines of "what, you dont have any books in england? you have to buy all of ours?" and so on.
after 45 minutes of standing in queues and filling out the obligatory forms, the books were off to england and i headed for the library to repeat the whole process of filling out useless forms, being lectured to, and waiting. grr
after this excitement i met masyamba and ira for lunch. it was pissing rain so we went to the closest place and chatted. such a pity i cant spend my whole life just socialising....but i have exams in october and right now i really should be preparing for them....yikes!

19.8.06

the KGB boys

I suppose the male equivalent of the generals daughter would be the various kgb men whom I have among my acquaintances/students/ colleagues here. There are several of them. Many come from military of KGB families as well, since in the soviet union it was common for children to follow their parents careers. Many generals were the sons of generals, and then married the daughters of other generals, and so on. I like talking to the KGB guys since they can tell very interesting stories about a social strata that no longer exists. They all have certain traits in common, such as a sober demeanour that never show if the person is happy or bored or annoyed. Vladimir told me how he got into the KGB school. He wanted to sit the entrance exams both there and at mgy. But the KGB school exams were first, and during the exam day, he had his documents confiscated by the officials, which meant that he couldn’t sit the exams at mgy at all (since you are not allowed in without documents). Thus he was forced to go to the KGB school. There were many aspects of that no one told him about during the interview and exams. He didn’t know he would spent 8 years wearing a uniform and living 4 to a room in dormitory. Never mind the exercise and psychological training that accompanied such a course. The good thing was that the KGB was the one part of soviet military style service that was free of hazing. Such things were not tolerated, and in any case Vladimir claims there was no time for that sort of stuff, the students worked non-stop and often didn’t sleep more than 3 hours a night. Oleg agreed. He says some guys who had completed service in the army tried to bring hazing to the KGB academy, but they failed. Vladimir and I argue constantly about the law. He claims that laws must exist, but he doesn’t need to follow them. I say that laws don’t work unless everyone in the country adheres to them. But he complains that in Russia some people will always be exempt, and he plans to be one of them. Laws are for stupid people who cant get around them. He knows, having seen the system for the inside. But if people like him continue to break the law with impunity, how will order ever be installed in this place? But then some people don’t want order, they flourish in its absence. Although oleg and Vladimir don’t like laws, they rigidly adheres to all traditions. My chair is always pulled out, my drinks are paid for, and I am escorted home after dark. Vladimir got married in December and became a father in June. He admits he didn’t want to get married and doesn’t love his wife. But he pays her bills and has already bought his infant son a flat. That is what is expected of him, and he doesn’t question it. Of course, in the best Russian tradition he will get divorced in a year or two and the whole scenario will replay with some other woman. Oleg is a serial husband as well. Perhaps it is again the KGB connection again. Oleg claims that in the KGB, all potential wives had to be subject to a background check and screening, and often a guys first choice would be rejected, so he would have to choose another…hardly and ideal situation, but obviously in those days no one was asking questions.

the general's daughter

I work with some pretty odd people here. So I thought I would add a few descriptions of them to preserve them in memory.
One of these people is X, the daughter of a retired soviet general. She spent a chunk of her childhood in cuba, her real childhood she tells me. Life was much better in cuba than here in Moscow. Her family lived in an enclave for Russians right on the edge of Havana. In the enclave they had their own shops (providing them with kolbasa and sirki even in cuba) and their own school. Her family was allotted a house (for the first time in their lives) and they even had a garden with a patio. And a dog. The dog dominates her memory of the place, she bursts in to tears even now describing how they had been forced to leave the dog there when they returned to Russia. She has funny stories about going back and forth between Havana and Moscow, about the people who would jump out of the plane and go bolting across the tarmac during refuelling at Gander airport in Canada, and about the time she smuggled a smelly lobster to her sister in Moscow (where such things were unknown). I gave her an article from the economist on the state of things in cuba in light of fidels surgery. Her father was friends with Raul castro, and X agrees that raul is lacking in charisma. He is a doer not a dreamer, which is why he can never replace his brother in the peoples hearts. Like me she is very worried about what will happen to the place after fidel is gone.
X’s other favourite topic of conversation is sex. She appears to be in full rebellion (age 31) against her military family’s soviet sexual prudery. For some reason sex was a completely taboo topic in the soviet union, especially among people of her class. Her mother never talked to her about it at all, and when she first got her period, in Havana, she actually thought she was dying. The mother of a Cuban friend managed to set her straight. However it appears that X is doing everything now to reverse her parents prudishness. She talks about sex non stop. And about her lovers (of which there are so many I often get confused and cannot keep track….so I just nod my head and pretend I know who she is talking about). This is a common theme with Russian women of her generation, those who were born early enough to grow up in the Soviet period, but who finished school/university in an independent Russia. When I was teaching here before (2000-2003) I had many similar students, all about the same age. I even had a student whom I called tarzanka (do to her limited English skills which seemed destined never to improve) who was also a general’s daughter. At one point during the year I had her as my student, she got pregnant, but decided to have an abortion as she could not figure out who the father might be, her husband or his friend. You would think as a medical doctor she would have been able to prevent such a situation in the first place, but no. they never do. X’s stories are similar, and the innocuous “how was your weekend” seems to invite trouble.
But at least she is not boring.

14.8.06

Hyun soo, in his own words

I have been asked to teach a 12 year old Korean boy how to write....but how do you do that? it is nearly imposible in my view. out of ignorance, i asked the boy to write me a story, any story, about anything he wanted.
the result is truely incredible, so i could not resist putting it up here for everyone to see.

The Crime, by Hyun Soo Cho
I was there in Korea. It was midnight when a phone call came from my companion called Jake. He asked if I could come out to the Grand Park in the Center of Seoul, so I said I can. 2hours later I was heading to the Grand Park in my BMW 5series. I accelerated full speed as no cars went by. In 30 minutes I was there waiting for Jake when a red Mercedes arrived. It was him. He was the head of all the gangsters in Korea. He stepped forward to me and whispered something to my ear which I could hardly understand. He repeated again and finally understood. It was another plan. It was a horrible plan, but I could not refuse. The plan was to surround a train and seize the gold stored inside the train and then explode it. If the plan succeeded it could be a lot of money. Nobody could refuse money. I agreed but still didn’t feel so sure about the plan. I had three days before the plan started. The only thing that came into my mind was the plan. I wasn’t sure if this was the right thing to do. Finally the day came. Everybody gathered in the Seoul Train Station. 6 men (including Jake) got into the train and 10 men (including me) were waiting for the train to stop at the next station. 4 men were blocking the entrance. Finally the crime started. One of the men in the train persuaded the driver to stop at the next station. The train stopped. Few minutes later the train was surrounded. The men were busy collecting gold while the others were surrounding the train. Soon all the gold that could be found was collected. They threw a grenade at the train and a moment later the train exploded. Just then we could here the sirens of the police cars. We ran as if we were faster than the speed of light. I survived. The police wasn’t fast enough to catch us or to remember the number plate. That evening I received 200,000,000,000 won which was quite a lot of money. I switched on the TV the next day and the first thing I saw was the explosion of the train the day before. 149 people were found dead. This caused sorrow to the whole country not just to the families; from there I realized that I made the wrong choice. I realized from the explosion that the country is important than yourself. I also realized that this also brought a great shame to the country. From that day I didn’t have a single moment which was peaceful and till this day I still regret about the accident.

summer's last gasp

this coming week is predicted to be hot, but i think it will be one of the last ones. august in moscow always marks the end of summer, and i can remember the year it snowed on the first of september (ok, that is really unusual, but still it happened) so it is time to go out and wear all the summer outfits one more time before they get packed up for yet another very very long winter. everyone i know is going off for a last end-of-august holiday to try to make their tan last a tad longer by giving it a late season blast in goa or hurgada. i will stay here however, and watch as autmn rapidly approaches.

biblioteka imeni lenina

i thought i would take advantage of the free wifi that has appeared all over my neighbourhood to post some of the pictures on my computer. of course, i am sure there must be some trick connected to this free wifi business. apparently 4 million households in moscow got it yesterday. but i have difficulty imagining it is going to last long....

another sunday brunch

yesterday i met caitlin for yet another one of our sunday brunches. this time we met near caitlins office, where she had stocked 20 boxes of gluten free crackers that she had discovered at the produkti near her house. the produkti lady thinks she is mad and even asked why on earth she was buying so many of the same boxes of crackers, caitlin tried to explain it was for a gluten intolerant friend, not that the baba understood what that meant....

12.8.06

excess


I managed to spend about 12 hours in restaurants on Wednesday.
The day got off to a nice, productive start. I got up at 5:45 to get to an early morning meeting at the other end of the city. The meeting finished at 9:30 and I headed straight for the library to get in to the fotocopy babas before the crowds arrived. This I did, and by 1 I felt I had got enough done to take a break…and that is when things got decadent. I met Igor and Ira. We were all hungry, and Igor mischievously suggested going for sushi. The thing is that Ira just moved here from western Ukraine, where apparently she never tried any national cusine other than Ukrainian. Igor knows this, obviously, and it was for this reason that he suggested the sushi. So we went to planeta sushi (a chain found all over the city selling edible, decently priced sushi) and went a bit crazy. First we ordered all the fresh fruit drinks Ira had never heard of (guava etc) and made her try them all, then we ordered a truly excessive amount of sushi and set about trying to teach Ira how to use chop sticks. It was a bit ridiculous, but after some drinks we were all laughing, including the waitresses. This went on for several hours, and the restaurant even brought us dessert sushi (with fruit inside) on the house. In the process we also managed to cover every topic imaginable from post grad examinations to Serbian post modernist writing. We must have seemed like a group of freaks.
This would have been a nice relaxing day had it stopped there. However in the evening, as every Wednesday evening, I had to go over to a company where I teach and check documents twice a week. But when I arrived, I was greeted by Vladimir (the ex KGB friend of the pirate) and Oleg who announced that we were not going to be productive, but rather were going to go out. Vladimir had already made reservations at B2, a restaurant/ night club with regular concerts. So we ended up in a jazz lounge with a band playing café del mar music while we drank and ate….naturally, sushi. We were there for hours. We kept ordering random plates just to try them, and then the mobiles came out and Oleg and Vladimir started to invite some friends and the table filled with people and plates…..i stumbled home at 2, although I had to be at the other side of Moscow at 8 to teach a class.
I actually made it to the class on time. Masha, the student, greeted me with “oi, I am too tired to work, lets go downstairs to the restaurant.”
We did, but I ordered only coffee. There was no room for more.

9.8.06

fainting spells

you probably never wondered what would happen to you if you fainted in the Lenin library. the topic never crossed my mind either until this morning when the girl in front of my wiped out quite unexpectantly, collapsing in a human puddle at my feet.
one of the library babas saw the girl fall, and after making a phone call, she ordered me to grab her by the legs. since saying no to a library baba is not an option i did as i was told, as did a girl who was sitting near by and was ordered to take the unconscious girl's arms. we then carried the girl (whose name i never discovered) to the central hall, as indicated by the babushka. we were met there by the Lenin Library Medsestra. i had no idea that the library even employed its own resident nurse, but it does....and an angrier baba i have never encountered!
she slapped the girl a few times on the face until she came to, and then asked her if she was pregnant. the girl claimed she wasnt, but the baba made a grunt that indicated "they all say that" and repeated her explanation. she then went for the details, asking when the last time the girl got her period, how often she had sex and so on. all of this in the central hall filled with people walking past to use the catelogues. obviously the girl turned bright red, especially whent he baba announced she would have to make a medical exam...right there! so the medical baba waddled off, ordering those of us who had carried the girl to stay with her. eventually she reappeared with all kinds of odd instruments. she took blood pressure, and then several blood samples, and continued asking all kinds of hideous questions, while people walked by and stared. i waited until she was side tracked and bolted, not wanting to spend the whole morning there....but i am very very very glad it was not me who wiped out on the library carpet!

6.8.06

chav nation of hummers


Russians have long been obsesses with cars. When I lived here before, it seemed everyone needed a BMW or Mercedes. I can remember sergei my old boss arranging to have his stolen in Germany for him. My Russian friends could never understand why I, and many of my foreign friends preferred to take the metro. I tried to explain it is faster and cheaper, but my friends were never convinced, for them not taking the metro always seemed to be a source of pride, whereas for me, taking cars during the day always seemed like a huge pain. Lately, it seems, the city developed an incredible obsession for really big cars. Not cars, jeeps of SUVs. Several of my acquaintances have gone out and bought one. The last time I had lunch with anatoli, who always has the latest in car fashion, he was driving a Mercedes SUV. I find this odd, especially as these monsters are notoriously difficult to park in a city not designed to support the volume of cars currently on the roads. Parking would be a problem even in a smart car, but in a Mercedes SUV, it is a total nightmare. So why does everyone want one? I decided to ask people who are more in touch with these matters than i. Anatoli claims jeeps are more safe and more comfortable, since you supposedly have more leg room. Olga claims jeeps are more “kruta.” She is slightly car obsessed and is now in the process of getting a new one for herself. she was torn between the cute little mazda 3 and an SUV. The mazda was cuter (and comes in red, every dyevs favourite colour) but she insists that the SUV is better. She claims people feel more powerful in a jeep. Because they are high up, the drivers can look down (literally, physically) on all the other regular cars and feel more important. The mititsia (GAI) will not challenge you in the same way, they will show more respect. Other drivers will be afraid of you and always give you the right of way. And if you are in a crash, your car will not be as damaged as some little moscovitch. Or at least that is how olga explained things to me. Of course, it is also a money thing. Russian like cars that look like they were very expensive (even if they were stolen from some poor german) and SUVs are certainly that. They also like the ones that come with the dark windows so you cant see the person inside, hence the appearance of Hummers. Oleg claims jeeps are better in an accident, the other person will die before you do, he argues. But then Marina claims that Russia is simply a chav nation and Russians just want to buy the most expensive car they can find so they can show it off to everyone. They prefer to have a Mercedes SUV and to live in a small soviet flat with their mother than to save money to buy a flat of their own or make remont. But this phenomenon seems to have attacked the whole region. Caitlin went to Yerevan the other weekend, and came back reporting that there were few cars on the roads, but a disproportionate number of them were Hummers. How odd.

4.8.06

the good life


it is good to be an overfed house cat.
i have human servants who spend all their waking hours attending to my every feline need. i even managed to pack one of them off to my old rodina to earn more money to feed me and buy me more toys and cat beds.
in the meantime i have been granted a large house with a garden and servants who take care of me. as you can see in the photo, i am waiting at the moment for one of them to open my food tin, and to serve me on my silver platter.
things are as they should be.

3.8.06

blah

i cant wait for the end of this week. i dont know why, but it has seemed exceptionally long, even though it has been very productive. i have got alot done in the library and at home. i finished my annotated bibliography and got it off to my supervisor, and now i am back to working on my literary review. i have decided that in order to write this though, i must first come up with a working definition of culture and that has proved suprisingly difficult. so i spent a few hours late last night reading through Lotman on the hopes that his great thoughts would enlighten me. they did, but i still havent come up with the thing i am looking for. so finally i got frustrated and watched a DVD (i saw Kukushka a russian film that is actually mainly in finnish and some odd lapplandish language)....the most simple way to turn of my brain and completely relax. i guess any serious thoughts regarding culture and my literary review will have to wait for the weekend when i dont have my job to think about as well. but no matter how much work i get done, i always have the feeling that it isnt enough, that i have somehow wasted time, and that i should be doing more with my months here. this feeling has been with me for years, since budapest at least and maybe before. no matter how much i do, it isnt enough.....yet, unlike in budapest, there is no competition here. or rather there is, but they are unseen? or maybe i am only up against myself at this stage?

31.7.06

procrastinating

I am supposed to be working on my annotated bibliography, and i am actually. But it involves reading large amounts of Lapteva’s 900 page book, which is armful to the health in substantial quantities. So for time to time I need to take rests from Lapteva’s encyclopaedic narrative to enjoy less dense fare.
So over the past few days, while trying to finish up this awful bibliography, I have watched a series of films, provided courtesy of the pirate, and also courtesy of the various airlines I have been sitting on recently. As for the airlines, British Airways films are MUCH better than those on Air France. Due to this difference, I was subjected to the latest Asterix film earlier this week. One was ok, but now they are not even remotely funny. Nor would I say that les Brigades du Tigre really merited an international audience.
The pirates films have been a bit more inspiring. Breakfast on Pluto is brilliant, and I recommend it highly. It was completely different than what I expected, but maybe that is because I didn’t read the description on the back of the film case very carefully. It is a bit like Transamerica, but Northern Irish and a lot better. The Devil Wears Prada made me laugh very hard, even though the copy I got was dubbed in Russian, despite its claim to the contrary. Meryl Streep is excellent…you never know whether to sympathise with her character or not. Of course I will not argue that the film constitutes great art, but it is exactly the sort of entertainment I have been enjoying indulging in over the past few days.
I have also gone through a series of Russian films, having got one of those compilations where you get 8 films on 1 DVD. They seem to only produce those here in Moscow, I have never seen such DVD combos elsewhere. They are only good for Russian films, as they never come with dual language sound tracks, and I really do prefer to hear things in the original, rather than dubbed over by a monotone Russian male voice.
So I watched that great hit of the summer, прорыв. It is yet another one of those easy-to-understand movies about the war in Chechnya. The good guys are blond and clean-shaven (although some have moustaches) and the bad guys are swarthy and have beards. The good guys are always heroic and honest and willing to die for mother Russia, and the bad guys are treacherous. The good guys have standard uniforms and the bad guys have tracksuits and trainers with green scarves tied around their head and covered in Arabic writing. The good guys are purely ethnically Russian, whereas the bad team always includes a couple of foreign agitators, normally some Arabs or Africans. A number of films have been made along these lines, and I suppose this is just the latest. Of course I recognise it is a piece of rubbish, but I also see it as a popular culture reflection of where things are at the moment. Not that I like what I see. On the subject of Chechnya, Vladimir lent me дом дураков, which is some kind of weird Kosturica style film, just set in Chechnya. It features all the caricatures mentioned above, plus a lot of crazy people (hence the title). фартовый isn’t set in Chechnya, but the action does take place in a Gulag, which I imagine is the next best thing. It features all the standard heroes mentioned above, only the Chechens are missing. So naturally by the end of the film, some of the seeming bad guys are converted into good ones. Not all though, one guy remains evil, but then he has slanty eyes, so maybe we are to believe he is not ethnically Russian after all? Then many people I know liked питер FM, but i cant say that i did. It was, of course, more intelligent than a Chechen war film, actually, it is the most intelligent of the Russian films listed here, but I couldn’t get into its mood. Maybe that is my fault. I will have to get мне не больно, i haven’t seen it yet, but everyone says it is really good.
But now I suppose I really should get back to that bibliography, there is a limit to the amount even I can procrastinate.

30.7.06

more on moscow

i have been back in moscow for over a week, but i have had so much to do that everything just seems like a blur. i have been running around trying to get things done for my research and my job, so much actually that i havent had the time to think about what i am doing. i am just going through the motions of doing it, thoughtlessly.
friday i had coffee with igor and ira. ira has just moved here from lvov. i find that really funny, since when i first met her (we were roomates in serbia in 2003) she had never been to russia and was determined that she would never set foot in the place. yet now she is living in russia and it seems highly likely she will spend the rest of her life here, since she and igor are planning on getting married sometime in august, and igor's future is pretty clearly here.
then yesterday i was over at the chos trying to help them...as they have suddenly decided to immigrate to canada! yet there are so many forms to fill out. the boys are to go to some private school that requires all kinds of special enterance exams, includding the SSAT (secondary school admissions examination). they also have to write all sorts of essays...even though they are 9 and 12 years old! and the school applications must be done nearly a year in advance, hence they should be sent off soon for admission in September 2007. it is all very complicated, even more so than applying for university, it would seem.
exhausted from these efforts, caitlin and i decided on a nice bimbo sunday. we had our normal brunch (i had an omlette, as always, this time we went to Jean Jacques). then we went on our regular sunday shopping tour. i ended up with a belt from furla and some shoes from Tsum....not that i needed anything...but i suppose it is the retail therapy necessary to get me through the week that is approaching...

28.7.06

more on minneapolis

the sky line you see is minneapolis during the day, and the kid flying fountain was taken in rochester, which is about an hour away. minneapolis is a typical north american city, modern with lots of sky scrapers. i was surprised to learn that the place isnt small, it has a population of about 2 million, which makes it the same size as budapest (although it is a lot less beautiful!) the weather was hot, around 35 or so, but i had to carry a sweater with me all the time since every place i went had air conditioning, which i am definately not used to. it was a bit uncomfortable to sleep at night in the hotel, since i always felt too cold, no matter how i tried to adjust the temperture dial....

MOA

i also went to the mall of america while in minneapolis. it appears to be the city's biggest attraction, and i had the dismal feeling that people actually choose to spend their free time there. the place is absolutely huge, with over 500 shops inside. it is the largest shopping centre in the country and the second largest in the world. in the middle there is a huge theme park, stupidly called camp snoopy. but little kids seem to love it. there are roller costers and water rides...i got some clothes and a new 60 GB ipod....

guthrie

so i have been back in moscow for a full work week already, but i havent had the time to post my photos from last weeks adventures...so here are some photos of the guthrie theatre, where i saw the Great Gatsby performed. i thought it was a well chosen performance, and it was fairly well staged. the theatre has recently been redesigned by a french architect, and while the outside is a bit odd, the inside is nice, with a comfortable bar and great views window views of the river, as you can see.

24.7.06

москва

i havent had the chance to write anything about what i actually got up to outside the airports...but now i am already back in russia. if you want to know what i have been up to in the past 30 hours, just look at the airport entries, but in reverse. it was a long trip back, flying out of a corn feild yesterday morning and getting in to moscow this afternoon. i havent even been to my house yet. my not-terrbily-understanding boss didnt give me today off, so i am killing 45 minutes in an internet cafe before heading into work....with my suitcases in tow. mondays i work late, starting only at 7pm, so in my boss's mind i didnt need the day off, as my plane came in at 4. grrr. oh well, i suppose on one hand it is better to save the holiday days for when i really want them....but on the other hand, i have been on airplanes in 5 cities for the past 30 hours, and i smell.

21.7.06

freak show culminates: detroit- minneapolis


the flight from detroit to minneapolis was scary. i was next to a fat woman who kept eating crisps (hmmm, no mystery there). but by then i was so jet lagged i could barely think, much less observe. i got to the the hotel late in the evening and crashed on the bed.

20.7.06

freak show gets provincial: new york- detroit




the image you get from the pictures is not what i imagine detroit would look like....but then, except for this part, the rest of this place was depressing as hell. the people were noticibly more provincial than in new york, and kept telling me how cute my accent is. i even got upgraded to first class on the plane there just for being foreign...i suppose....i cant see why else in any case.
i cant imagine why anyone would voluntarily live in such a place.

freak show goes political, new york-detroit




who holds political rallies in aeroports? hassidic jews it would seem.
i arrived in jfk and hopped on the little aeroport rail to get to the next gate from which i would be departing. the whole process went really quickly and i arrived in my departure lounge with over 3 hours to kill. i made a complete tour of the aeroport. the architecture doesnt match: some parts are really pretty and the rest is another ugly aeroport. then i played around on my computer and watched the people in my groggy sleep deprived way. but then i heard people shouting into a microphone...so i followed the sounds and i saw that a political rally was going on, right in the aeroport. the speaker, a young woman, was calling for beirut to be bombed into the stone age. the audience, hasidic jews waiting for their flight to tel aviv, was applauding and aggreeing vigourously.
appauled and unable to believe people could get so happy about ANYONE being bombed, i watched out of horror for a few minutes before moving on to another part of the terminal where el salvadoran gast arbeiters were waiting for there flight home. it is a good thing i had to take tons of spanish in school, it is certainly of use in this aeroport, where it appears to be the language of preference. at least i can understand what everyone is saying around me....although i am not always sure that i want to....

19.7.06

the freak show continues, paris-nyc


in addition to having to change planes in 5 cities, i also have to change terminals everywhere. i didnt have much time in paris, and the 45 minutes i had was spent on the roissy trains and sprinting about....i didnt even have time to benefit from the decent duty free in terminal 2C, so i was really annoyed. hopefully i will have more time on the way back to do some satisfying commercial damage. it looked like a nice sunny day. they told us on the plane it would be 28 degrees. i would have liked to have left the terminal and hopped on the RER....but no, the insanity continues.

the freak show commences, moscow- paris




i got up at 4 am. the zholti taxi arrived at 4:30.
the one good thing about having such an obscenely early flight is that early morning is the only time in moscow when there are not trafic jams. the roads were almost completely deserted and we got to sheremetevo in a record 23 minutes. normally it takes over an hour. it was already dawn, so i got a great view of the lovely enormous soviet flat blocks that line the route to the aeroport. millions of people must live in those areas.....it reminds me a bit of department 93.
I got upgraded to business class at the check in, and i ended up next to a wonderful exam of russian dyevdom: a teenage girl travelling to paris to go shopping. not only was she wearing all designer clothes....but she had a little yorkshire dog with her outfitted in the latest louis vuitton doggie accessories and traveling in a louis vuitton dog carrying case. he made sounds of neglect every time the dyev tried to read her gala magazine (or vogue, or bazarre).
i hate sheremetevo. i cant believe after all these years they havent cleaned it up at least a bit. there were all of two officers working at the passport control, and it took forever to get through the queue. plus the duty free sucks....and it is not as if people going through that place lack in disposible income, at least judging by my neighbour's appearence....

17.7.06

approaching insanity

had an excellent brunch with caitlin on Sunday at hediard, the omlettes are excellent, and the grocery section attached to the restaurant is good as well, with an excellent cheese section (as you would expect from hediard)
we then moved on for our normal sunday shopping rounds, but neither of us did any serious damage (i am still recovering from last weeks furla adventure)
today i am meeting some sort of book dealer in the metro. there are two books i have been trying to track down for some time, and, seeing as i hd not been very successful, i decided to pay someone totrack them down for me. today i am supposed to meet this character, with the books, in the metro. should be interesting.
meanwhile, tommarrow i have a 14 hour day at work...then i begin my insane long weekend tour.
wednesday morning at dawn i will get on a plane for paris to begin a very strange series of flights. the plan is to hit 5 cities in 3 counties in 27 hours.
the problem with all of this is that i have to return more or less by the same route....so i will have close to 60 hours in aeroports and on planes this week.
it might be a while before i post again. but maybe not, who knows? maybe luzhkov has installed wifi at sheremetevo? i doubt it somehow....

14.7.06

death by hospitality

There have been a number of memorable encounters this week.
On Tuesday evening I had the chance to meet, even if only for an hour or so, with Tania and Brad. We lived in the same komunalka type flat 6 years ago in St Petersburg. Then we saw each other quite a bit in Moscow in 2001-2002. Then they moved to Vancouver, which is where they have been for the past four years. Now they are off on a 6-month tour around the world, lucky them.
Then yesterday a group of my students decided to take me out for dinner. As the ringleader of them is ethnically Georgian, it was naturally decided we would go to a Georgian restaurant. Those of you who have had the pleasure and pain of experiencing Georgian hospitality will know what I suffered. The guys ordered enough food to feed the whole flipping Georgian army, and then insisted I try EVERYTHING.
Of course the food was delicious, Georgian food always is. I really have no idea why this cuisine has not caught on outside the borders of the old Soviet Union, it is truly incredible. I love the various vegetable dishes, especially as they often include my favourite aubergines, baklazhani po gruzinski is one of my favourite choices…and Georgian cheese is the best, I could eat it every day. Georgian wine is also very good, although unfortunately it has been made illegal due to stupid politically bickering between the Russian and Georgian governments (we don’t like you, so we will make your wine illegal!…..great foreign policy)
So the problem was no the quality of the food, as always the issue was quantity. Georgians have very specific notions of hospitality, one of the rules of this elaborate code seems to be that all guests must not leave the table until they are only able to do so by rolling. The guys ordered me multiple salads to start with, then multiple main dishes. I had to try them all. Next they ordered multiple desserts, and huge plates of fresh fruit to wash it all down. In the background a pianist was playing all the old songs of my 1980s childhood, including multiple sessions of Chicago’s “if you leave me now” and Toto’s “Africa” and this combined with the interesting Kavkaz interior design and the excess of food and drink created a rather surreal impression. The whole dinner lasted about three hours. When I got home I had to sit in a very still position without moving for about and hour before I could think of getting up and changing into my pyjamas. Then I had to sit still for another period of time before I could think of lying down.
This morning, just when I thought my intestines had more or less recovered from the beating, I went to work…….on Wednesday and Friday mornings I work in a company that seems to employ mainly Muslims. This is great for me, since I don’t have to listen to the endless racist jokes about my origins (or my origins as imagined to be implied by my name) but, unfortunately it provided me no rest from the complicated rules of Kavkaz hospitality.
So I arrived at work, sat down and a Chechen brought me coffee. Then a cheese concoction appeared. Then chocolat…..I think I can imagine now what a boa constrictor goes through.

12.7.06

no news is bad news

Something has been irritating me since I came back here. There is no news in this country…at least not really in an accessible or convenient way, and it was not always this way.
Once upon a time (but for a brief period, in the late 1990s) there used to be something that could be called a free press in this country. It wasn’t the most professional, it often looked pretty amateur, but it had articles of interest and opinionated views. Now it is completely gone. I could see the signs of this coming when I lived here before. The government changed in 2000, after a spade of bombings (as you will remember well, lemurana!), none of which was ever really satisfactorily solved, but all of which were blamed on Chechens. After that things got a lot harder for those of us of “non Slavic origins” and the government started insisting, for example, that we get tested for AIDS every 6 months and carry around a document claiming we were AIDS free. Now, in addition, we have to be tested for leprosy as well, what fun!
It was at that time too that the interesting newspapers started disappearing. There were take-overs….or journalists (like those of the old NTV) would show up to work and discover that all the locks had been changed. When I lived here before this problem was already clear but it was still in process, but now three years later it seems complete. I bought a Russian “news” magazine on the metro the other day, as I had nothing else to read, and I read the top three stories: Putin met with a group of tourists at the Kremlin and kissed a little boy, Nicole Kidman married Keith Urban in Australia, and the son of a Russian business man has redecorated his flat, in an effort to start his new adult life, “I will never be poor” he assures us “in every country in the world I would find a way to succeed.”
That is news?
Discouraged, I tried for the foreign press. The Moscow times used to have ok articles, but even it is looking boring these days, but I suppose it can be called the last remotely interesting newspaper here. Then I decided to track down the Economist. I used to buy it every week to entertain me on my train rides back and forth to the faculty. In London it come out Thursday night, or everywhere else in the country Friday morning. The same was true when I lived in Paris, it was always in the stands by Friday, and it was available in most stands and kiosks around the city centre. In Budapest as well, it was for sale by Friday afternoon, and in most central areas. Here, however, it is available only in a handful of kiosks (I have counted three thus far) in the very centre, near the major 5 star hotels. The most annoying thing is that it arrives, for some odd reason, one week late! It is on the stands by Wednesday or Thursday, or the day before the next issues appears in London. I don’t know why this is, but it is not the Economist: my mother lives on a different continent and gets her subscription economist by Monday at the latest. So if it can fly across the ocean, why can’t it make it in a timely fashion from one part of Europe to the other? What happens to it? Is it held up at Customs? The same goes for the other international news papers, they arrive late, and are available only in a few places.
Now of course, some people get around these issues. I know some companies have the Financial Times or the Economist delivered to their offices, and that those arrive more or less on time. But this represents the minority of the population who has access to these privileges. There is also the internet, where you can read pretty much what ever you want.
But what if you are an average person in this country, who for example, doesn’t read English or German fluently? Or what if you haven’t got regular internet access, as many people don’t? what are you supposed to do then? I used to make fun of expats who insisted in reading only the news from their home countries, but at the moment here there is not much else.
When I go back to England, the first thing I will do on my very first Saturday back is buy a nice, big, fat Guardian and read the whole thing from cover to cover. It will take me the whole day no doubt, but it will be a great pleasure!!!!

10.7.06

sundays and ambar

i met caitlin yesterday for our weekly sunday brunch. these brunchs are often really more like lunches, happening later than the word brunch normally implies, as the result of late saturday nights. but yesterday we were up early and decided to meet for a proper brunch at 11:00am. we went to ambar. i used to go to that place practically every sunday with jeremy about 3 years ago, but i hadnt been there since august 2003, when i went there one last time with jeremy before hopping on a plane with an angry cat and all my worldly possessions, bound for budapest. but now that i am back, i decided to check out the place again adn see how it has held up....it is, i suspect, completely unchanged. even the prices seemed the same. but the food didnt taste so good this time around, i had a generic omlette, which was totally unsatisfying, but left me feeling i had overeaten. caitlin felt the same. i suppose some experiences are better preserved in ones memory.
fortunately the day improved as we headed for our weekly window shopping that generally doesnt stop at the window....i got a furla bag to match a dress i have to wear to a formal dinner in about 10 nights....
it was incredibly hot and sunny (33 degrees....later in the week they are predicting 37) and there were all kinds of strange people out in the streets, like the girl and her family walking their pet babboon, pictured above. all those types like me without a dacha...

9.7.06

my own personal pirate

While talking on the fone to Justin yesterday it occurred to me that perhaps this was not normal to the western mind. In London, I don’t think it is so common for a person to have their own personal pirate, whereas in Moscow it simply seems like common sense.
It all started on Wednesday when I was talking to Vladimir. We both love cinema, so at work we often compare the films we have seen, give each other recommendation, and swap dvds. We were doing so again on Wednesday when Vladimir asked me where I was getting my dvds. I have a few favourite places. For huge blockbusters (da vinci code, поцелуй бабочки) i simply go to the perehod near my metro station (a perehod is an underpass that allows you to cross a major street, they are also something like mini shopping centres, since people set up kiosks inside and sell everything from pepsi and chocolate to dvds and underwear)
When I want something more specific, I go to some perehods in the centre, where there is better choice, and if I feeling really ambitious, or I need some computer software, I go all the way out to gorbushka, a monstrously large complex that takes up the whole block of a street and sells everything electronic you could ever want. The going price for a dvd is about 100 rubles, which is to say just under 2 pounds, although you can get them for 80 if you go a bit out of the centre.
I though 2 pounds was a fair price to pay for a dvd, but Vladimir insisted I was paying far too much. He has his own personal pirate. Every month, he, his wife, and a few friends give the pirate a list of the 100 films they want that month, and a few days later, when everything is ready, the pirate delivers the dvds to Vladimirs office (yes, to the office). The pirate wont take orders of less than 100, and as a result gives Vladimir a good discount: he pays only 45 rubles per dvd, which is under 1 pound. He also saves Vladimir the effort of having to go to perehods all over the city to hunt down the dvds he really wants. Normally the pirate is able to produce about 80% of the films requested, and, being a civilised pirate, he doesn’t charge for the films he couldn’t find and deliver. Obviously this is a logical and effective way to save time, money, and hassle. So from now on, I am giving my orders directly to the pirate. I will let you all know the results.
Oh, and just as a final note, anticipating you queries as to the legality of all this, I thought I might add that Vladimir is ex-FSB. The FSB is what the KGB was renamed after the collapse of the Soviet Union. And even though he no longer works there, Vladimir still has strong connections with the state security apparatus. Furthermore, these connections are not exclusively limited to the Russian Federation; he also seems to have strong ties with people in the security services in other former Soviet Republics. So I guess the pirate has himself a very good customer indeed.

8.7.06

the weekend, finnally

it is finnally saturday. it couldnt have come soon enough, i have had a really long week. my boss messed up my schedule and that left me with even less time than usual to do my research, which was frustrating. i sometimes have the feeling that i have no time to do what i came here to do: read and write. so i called a meeting with my boss to explain that i found the changes in my schedule both unnecessary and unfair. fortunately he agreed and things will go back to normal from next week. thank god, i would go crazy otherwise.
and then yesterday i got paid and decided to go shopping, as the sales are now on and everything is 50% off...but actually all i got clothing wise was a skirt, then i went shopping for what moscow produces best: books and dvds! so i trundled home with 8 new dvds, which cost me all of 10 pounds. i have been trying to catch up on the latest russian films, but last night i wasnt in the mood for such a production, and i ended up watching the lion the witch and the wardrobe...the narnia books were some of my favourites when i was little and i wanted to see how they looked in film. i know that some religious types have been argueing that the books are supposedly religous in their theme, but i have to say, that i was never aware of that when i read them as a kid and having watched the film, i still dont get it. perhaps i am a bit dense? or maybe i just prefer to believe that it really is a tale of a lion, a witch, a wardrobe, 4 children, and talking beavers. literally.

7.7.06

even more library babas


So it seems there is some secret set of shelves in biblioteka imena lenina. Or something like that. Yesterday I went in and asked the baba to get the books off my shelf and bring them to me. When she brought them, I noticed there were only 3 and I had requested the day before that another one be brought for me as well. When I asked about the other book, and the baba looked it up in her complicated hand scrawled file, she made a series of significant grunting sounds and took me to see another baba. This second baba was in charge of protecting a pad locked cupboard, which she opened when she saw my request card. Inside were all kinds of old books, including the one I wanted. When I asked why some books were kept here, I was told they were “exceptional” except that no one chose to tell me exactly why! The book didn’t look different than any others I had requested, so I couldn’t figure it out. But when I took my books back, the whole procedure had to be repeated, so now my reading time has become a double baba experience, ugh.
My research is coming along slowly and I am starting to understand why so many people in Russian history choose to do their primary research in Helsinki, the libraries have the same materials for the 19th century (since Finland at that time was part of the Russian empire) and yet in Helsinki they have things like COMPUTERS. Imagine that.

2.7.06

moscow stations

in the years since i last lived here, they have somehow managed to get the homeless people off the metro. i am not sure how it was done, but i cant say i am sorry. they used to sleep on the seats, especially on the circle line. the smell was absolutely horrendous, and it would stay with you for what seemed like ages even after you got off. sometimes the militsia or the metro babas would come and hit the bomzh on the head with their red paddles, but normally they just slept. often they were children, but sometimes they were adults or even old people.
but they are gone, for the most part.
the beggers who come and give pitiful speaches from one end of the train and then walk to the other end begging along the way are still very much in force. i even recognise some of them from three years ago, so i can only assume it must be a somewhat profitable occupation. the accordian players are still around as well, as are the gypsys at ohotni riad. and the first metro of the day is still filled with the most horrendously drunk people imaginable. one puked dangerously close to my feet just the other day. i, and every other sober person on the train, quickly bolted to the other end of the wagon. that was when one man somehow bumped into another and this started a major skandal. the two guys started fighting. first with words, then pushes, then finnally fists. one fell to the ground and rolled near the puke, while the other did the punching.
so i suppose some things have changed on the metro and some havent....

1.7.06

ill again

i have managed to develop some strange illness. i cough, i sneeze, my throat is inflamed.
after a few days of this i decided to check out my company provided health care plan and go to the doctor. somewhat to my surprise, the clinic where i am registered is really nice. the toilets even had toilet paper (amazing!) and it seemed clean. i saw a few specialists and was given and inhaler to walk around with and breathe from for 5 days. strangely, that seems to have taken care of the swelling and infection in my throat, but my cough is worse. hmmm. the doctor recommended i stay in bed for 3 days, but i can imagine my boss's (negative) reaction to that, and went to work anyway. this weekend however, i will sleep like a corpse.
i finnally finished watching the new russian version of doctor zhivago. it is uncomparably better than the hollywood rendition, and i recomend it to all of you who understand russian. oleg menshikov is great as zhivago (and he looks good to!) the only thing is the film is apporoximately 8 hours long. yes thats right EIGHT. so i saw it is an illness induced long-term project, and watched and about 2 hours a night for 4 nights....